In the morning of August 1oth, we decided to stay another night in Denali National Park. We moved from Teklanika campground at 30 miles mark to Riley Creek campground near the park entrance. On our way back to beginning of park, we went on two hikes off the road.
We climbed a small dome or mountain near primrose ridge between Sanctuary River and Savage river. The tundra we climbed upon felt like walking on a real soft mattress or set of pillows. You sank quite a bit. We had to work to get to the top. We stopped to rest several times. Once, Fred laid down and enjoyed the tundra softness. Once we got to the top, we sat down and looked for wildlife in the valleys below. We didn’t spot anything. We also waited for the McKinley cloud cover to disappear or lesson so we could get a clear view. The McKinley clouds almost lifted a couple of times but we finally gave up as more clouds appeared. We did get some partial photos of McKinley.
When we got to Savage River, we hiked up a gravel tourist trail along the river for about a mile. We saw many, many ptarmigans, the Alaskan State bird. They walk most of the time but show pretty white wings when they fly. We could never get a photo of them in flight as much as we tried.
On our final night in Denali, we attended Cabin Night dinner theater. It was great! We had already seen the cabins and read the stories of the people that were portrayed in the theater musical. The songs of Alaska were heartwarming. We had now seen so much of Alaska and Denali, we were feeling much more apart of it. The food was served family style with all the Ribs, salmon, beans and corn that you could eat. We had blackberry cobbler for dessert. No one left hungry.
On the morning of August 11th, we left Denali and headed for Fairbanks. We checked into the full service Riverside RV Park for 3 days. We both took long long, hot showers. It felt so good! Our campsite is very nice for an RV Park. We are about 100 feet from a boat put in on the Chena River. We plan of kayaking the Chena and Tanana Rivers for our campsite. We are resting and taking it easy for now.
In our first full day in Fairbanks we were busy. We went to the Tanana Valley Fair, the Alaska North Museum at the University of Alaska and Pioneer Park.
The Tanana Valley Fair was similar to local state or county fairs in upstate New York and western Massachusetts. We arrived to discover it was senior day. All seniors got in free and were treated with a free turkey dinner. We passed up the dinner and tried the reindeer sausage instead.
The exhibits at the Alaska Museum were excellent. We were a little disapointed in that we had seen similar materials at prior museum visits all over Alaska. It still took us about 3 hours.
The Pioneer Park was a unique experience. There was no entrance fee to this public theme park that contained a number of small museum attractions for Railroads, Bush Planes, River Boat, etc. There were many original log cabins moved to this site where they were used for gift and craft shops.
On our second full day in Fairbanks, it was rainy all day. We decided to take a 60 miles drive out to the Chena Hot Springs Resort. We toured the Ice House there which is powered by Geothermal Energy. We took a dip in the hotsprings rock pool which was very warm. We had a great dialogue with the Chena Ghost (Mark Ransom) with whom Fred had been communicating via the Alaska Living Yahoo Group. Mark is a manager at Chena Hot Springs.
While we were talking with Mark at Chena Hotsprings, a Milepost reporter introduced herself to Mark. She was same Milepost reporter that took our pictures at Wrangell-St Elias primitive campground earlier this summer. We exchanged stories.
Tomorrow morning, we are dropping our camper off at RV service facility to get the wheel bearings repacked while we fly to Ruby for an overnight visit. Ruby is an isolated village of 200 people on Yukon River about 200 miles west of Fairbanks. We will be staying at the home of Emmitt and Edna Peters, who were friends of Fred’s uncle Fr. Ron Dunfey.
We flew from Fairbanks to Ruby Alaska on the morning of Friday August 14th. The flight took about 2 hours.
Ruby is a small isolated village of 200 people located on the Yukon River about 250 miles west of Fairbanks. There are no roads leading to Ruby. Access is only by flying, boat in summer and dogsled/snowmobile the rest of the year.
Our hosts in Ruby were Edna and Emmitt Peters. They were married in Ruby some 30 years ago by Fred’s Uncle, Fr. Ron Dunfey. Their oldest Son, Sunny, was also baptized in Ruby by Fr.Ron.
Edna is an Eskimo from Nome. Her former name was Edna Ungudrukan. Edna went to college in Anchorage with Kristine Harder, who we met on the Alaska Ferry from Juneau to Haines. When Kristine met Fr. Ron in Juneau, she discovered that Fr. Ron knew Edna. This came as a shock, since she had thought of Edna’s move to Ruby was “to the end of the earth”. Kristine and Edna communicate often today by email. Kristine gave Fred Edna’s email address.
Fred emailed Edna a number of times. When Fred and Milly decided to go to Ruby to meet her and visit an isolated village, she offered to have us stay with them. Our plan was to fly in one day and leave the next. We ended up staying a second night when our return flight was cancelled due the inclement weather.
When we arrived in Ruby, we were met at the airport by our host Emmitt Peters, who works as the local agent for Warblows Air Ventures. He introduced us to Harold Esmailka who drove us to the Peter’s house from the airport.
When we settled into the Peter’s house, we found out that Emmitt Peters had won the 1975 Iditarod Race. He is known as the “Yukon Fox” all over over Alaska.
He won the race as a rookie and cut 6 days off the record time. His mushing methods changed the way the race was run. Google Emmitt Peters to learn more about his history. He is a member of Iditarold Hall of Fame and was recently inducted into American Indian Athletic Hall of Fame.
Emmitt Peters is an Athabaskan Indian who grew up in Ruby and has lived there all his life.
During our stay in Ruby, Emmitt regaled us with stories about the Iditarod, his travels as a professional musher, fish camps, moose hunting, his parents, etc. When Emmitt was busy, Edna filled us in on her experiences.
Edna has travelled over over the United States on various fellowships. She decided that to help avoid disappearance of native culture that natives should marry another native. She had read about the “Yukon Fox” and decided he was the kind of man she was looking to marry. Emmitt never had a chance!
Edna worked many years in Ruby as a health aid. She was the source of all medical help for all residents. It seems that she even performed minor surgury under the direction from a remote Doctor.
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Fr. Ron Dunfey and St. Peter’s Church
Harold Esmailka gave us a tour of Ruby. He took us to meet his Wife Florence in their home. They shared with us their life experiences and tragedies. Their daughter was the local postmaster who was murdered at work by a robber. Another Son was shot dead when he stepped in front of gun pointed at a another man’s woman. Another Son died in a plane crash. They have adopted several of their children.
Harold is quite the entrepreneur. He was a pilot. He started an airline that serviced Ruby and owned the general store there. He is quite active in the community and beyond. Approaching 80, Harold is now planning to initiate a Gold Mining business a short distance from Ruby. He was adopted by the Esmailka family and is a cousin of Emmitt.
Harold knew Fr. Ron Dunfey. He took us on a tour of the new St Peter’s Church built in 2005-6 time frame. The old church was attached to the new one to be used as a gathering hall. He showed us the old priest’s room in the old church where Fr Ron stayed when he was in Ruby. Fr. Ron would come a stay a week at a time in Ruby. Fr. Ron travelled to Ruby periodically from Galena, which is further down the Yukon. Harold introduced us to other people who also knew Fr. Ron.
We attended Sunday Church services in the new church. We had rabbit stew and other munchies with the parishioners after the service in the gathering hall.
There is a painting over the alter in the new Church called “DENAAHUTO” – Athabaskan for “Our Father”. This painting was done by Jon Van Zyle inside the church. It was inspired by Harold. The story of this painting is a great story! I have a copy of the story and will will be put into a separate TAB – Ruby Gift in the the Blog when I get the chance.
We also got pictures of Fr. Ron marrying the Peters and baptizing their son, Sunny.
Life in Ruby Alaska
Our brief stay is Ruby gave us a wonderful glimpse into the current native life in an isolated Alaskan village. It is hard to describe and communicate what we learned and discerned. We don’t fully understand it all. We stayed two nights. When we were in their home, Edna and Emmitt talked to us almost non-stop about their lives. Harold and Florence Emailka also shared so much with us.
Tom Esmailka met us while we were walking the street of Ruby. He took us on an ATV trip of the surrounding area. He pointed out the canyons where he liked to hunt.
Life in Ruby is now much different than in the past. They have snowmobiles instead of sleds powered by sled dogs. They have Satilite Tv and DSL Internet Access. There are daily airplane flights to Ruby from Fairbanks that bring provisions and mail. They are more connected to the world but still isolated.
Their native corporation provides medical support and periodic dividends.
As in the past, everyone helps out their neighbor. They look after each other. They share facilities. There is a village saw mill that anyone can use to cut their wood – just pay a trained operator. There is a gas depot where almost everyone gets their gas and oil. There is a large assembly hall.
Many natives still go to their fishing camps for as long a period as the regulations allow. They also go on hunting trips as they have for generations but now they have motors on their boats and use modern methods wherever it makes sense.
Many homes are still made of logs but many homes were constructed by HUD. The Peters’ home was made by HUD. It was a comfortable 3 bedroom home outfitted almost the same as found everywhere outside. “Outside” seems to be a term used to describe non-Alaska locations.
Winter gets quite cold here – minus 40 degrees is common.
We shared a salmon meal with Edna and Emmitt. Emmitt caught the salmon, half smoked it and froze it. He unfroze it and baked it. It had a wonderfully different taste.
Our visit to Ruby was a highlight of Alaska Journey.
We a very thankful that Edna and Emmitt invited us to stay with them. They were very gracious. As we left, we all hugged each other like lifelong friends.
